Mount Everest has long been a symbol of human endurance, with climbers typically spending weeks acclimatizing to the extreme altitude before summiting. However, a new proposal by Austrian guide Lukas Furtenbach suggests a radical shortcut that could potentially allow climbers to reach the world’s highest peak in just seven days. While some see it as a breakthrough, others argue that the risks involved could make it more of a dangerous gamble than a new era in mountaineering.
A Revolutionary Climb in Just Seven Days
Historically, summiting Mount Everest has been a lengthy and grueling process. In 1953, Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary took more than two months to conquer Everest, using a methodical approach that included acclimatization and the placement of ropes, ladders, and camps. Their climb resembled a carefully planned military operation. Today, climbers benefit from better infrastructure, including fixed ropes and the support of commercial expeditions, but the journey still often takes around two months, including a weeklong trek just to reach Base Camp.
This season, Furtenbach is offering a drastically shorter option, claiming he can get climbers from London to the summit in just seven days. The package, which costs approximately €150,000 per person, includes a helicopter ride to Base Camp and an immediate ascent without the usual three-week acclimatization process. The key element of this speed climb is the use of xenon gas, which is said to help climbers’ bodies cope with the low oxygen levels at high altitudes.
The Science of Xenon Gas
Xenon, a noble gas typically used as an anesthetic, is central to Furtenbach’s new approach. According to Furtenbach, inhaling xenon gas boosts the production of erythropoietin (EPO), a hormone that stimulates red blood cell production and helps the body transport more oxygen. Typically, climbers naturally stimulate EPO production by gradually acclimatizing to high altitudes. However, Furtenbach believes xenon can artificially accelerate this process, reducing the need for the slow, methodical acclimatization.
While Furtenbach has personally tested xenon during previous expeditions and claims success, there is little scientific evidence to support the idea that xenon improves EPO production or enhances performance at high altitudes. A major review of studies found no conclusive proof that xenon could effectively increase red blood cell production in humans, leading experts to question the safety and efficacy of this approach.
Experts Weigh In: Concerns and Risks
The climbing community has largely responded to Furtenbach’s proposal with skepticism. Dr. Andrew Peacock, a specialist in altitude medicine at the University of Glasgow, pointed out that simply increasing EPO levels does not guarantee an improvement in red blood cell production, especially in the short time frame Furtenbach suggests. Furthermore, the global mountaineering community’s medical commission has issued warnings about the potential risks of using xenon at high altitudes, as there is no clinical evidence supporting its safety in such extreme conditions. They also raised concerns about the increased risk of blood clots, strokes, and embolisms that could result from EPO-stimulating substances.
Despite these warnings, some within the mountaineering community see the potential for xenon to improve safety. Dawa Steven Sherpa of Asia Trekking suggested that, if proven effective, the method could reduce the time Sherpas spend in high-risk zones, thereby lowering their exposure to dangerous conditions. However, many still question whether it is ethical or wise to use substances banned in other sports, such as EPO-enhancing agents.
The Science Behind High Altitude and Acclimatization
The challenges of climbing Everest are rooted in the extremely low oxygen levels at high altitudes. At 5,500 meters, the altitude of Base Camp, only half the oxygen is available compared to sea level. At the summit, this drops to one-third. Climbers who ascend without supplemental oxygen often experience hypoxia, a condition that can lead to brain and lung damage. The body adapts by increasing red blood cell production, a process known as erythropoiesis, which is stimulated by EPO. However, if this process is not successful, it can result in life-threatening conditions.
For most climbers, supplementary oxygen is essential for survival at the summit. While some mountaineers, including Hillary and Norgay, used oxygen during their 1953 ascent, only a small number of climbers have managed to reach the top without it. Many see supplemental oxygen as a form of performance enhancement, but it remains a widely accepted tool in mountaineering.
The Controversy of Xenon Gas and Other Chemical Enhancements
The idea of using drugs and gases to improve performance at high altitudes is not new. In the past, climbers have experimented with various substances, including amphetamines and acetazolamide, to speed up acclimatization. Furtenbach’s use of xenon gas is part of a broader trend of testing new methods and substances to enhance performance. However, many experts remain unconvinced. Mike Grocott, a professor at the University of Southampton, argues that the current evidence does not support the idea that xenon can significantly improve oxygen transport or red blood cell production.
While Furtenbach remains hopeful about the potential of xenon, the lack of peer-reviewed studies and the inherent risks of using such an unproven method have led many in the mountaineering community to remain cautious. Some experts warn that rushing an ascent without proper acclimatization could lead to disastrous consequences, not only for the climbers but also for the Sherpas who support them.
A New Era or a Dangerous Gamble?
As Furtenbach prepares to lead his first group of climbers up Everest using xenon gas, the climbing world watches with a mix of curiosity and caution. The promise of conquering the world’s highest peak in just one week may seem tempting, but the risks involved are not to be taken lightly. Until more scientific evidence is gathered and proven, many experts will continue to question whether this fast-track method is a viable alternative to traditional acclimatization or just a dangerous shortcut.